What Are Common Faults with Electric Ovens? Fix These Issues Before Calling a Pro

If your electric oven isn’t heating properly, takes forever to preheat, or keeps turning off mid-bake, you’re not alone. These aren’t rare glitches-they’re everyday problems that show up in homes across Auckland and beyond. Most people assume it’s time to replace the whole unit, but 7 out of 10 electric oven failures can be fixed with a simple part swap or adjustment. You don’t need to spend $1,200 on a new oven if you know what to look for.

Heating element failure is the #1 issue

The heating element is the metal coil inside your oven that glows red when it’s working. Over time, it wears out from repeated heating cycles. You’ll know it’s bad if one side of the oven is cold while the other heats up normally, or if you see visible cracks, blisters, or broken sections in the element. A faulty bottom element means your baked goods come out soggy on the bottom. A failed top element means your food won’t brown or broil properly.

Test it yourself: Turn the oven on to 180°C and watch the element. If it doesn’t glow at all-or only glows in patches-it’s dead. You can also use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there’s no electrical flow, replace it. New elements cost between $40 and $80 and usually take under 30 minutes to install. Don’t forget to unplug the oven first. This is the single most common fix I see in my repair work.

Thermostat or temperature sensor malfunction

Your oven thinks it’s hotter or colder than it actually is. That’s the job of the thermostat or temperature sensor. When it fails, your oven might run too hot and burn cookies, or stay too cool and leave your roast undercooked. Many people blame the recipe when the real culprit is a faulty sensor.

Modern ovens use a temperature probe (usually a thin metal rod near the back wall). If it’s bent, corroded, or loose, it sends wrong signals to the control board. You can test this by placing an oven-safe thermometer inside and comparing it to the display. If there’s a difference of more than 15°C, the sensor is likely bad. Replacement sensors cost $30-$60. Replacing it involves removing a screw, unplugging the old one, and plugging in the new one. It’s that simple.

Broken or worn oven door seal

A damaged door gasket might not seem like a big deal, but it’s one of the sneakiest problems. If the seal around your oven door is cracked, brittle, or falling off, heat escapes. That means your oven has to work harder to maintain temperature, which increases energy bills and causes uneven cooking. You might notice the door feels hotter than it should, or the kitchen gets unusually warm during baking.

Test the seal: Close the door on a piece of paper. Try to pull it out. If it slides out easily, the seal is weak. Replace the gasket-it’s a $20 part and takes 15 minutes. Use the right size for your model. A poor seal can also trigger safety shutdowns in newer ovens that detect heat loss.

Control board or electronic control failure

If your oven display is blank, buttons don’t respond, or it won’t turn on at all, the control board might be the issue. This is the brain of the oven. It’s not always broken, though. Sometimes, a power surge or moisture from cleaning causes temporary glitches. Try resetting the oven by turning off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. If it still doesn’t work after that, the board could be fried.

Control boards cost $150-$300 and are harder to replace than elements or sensors. If you’re not comfortable working with wiring, call a technician. But before you pay for a service call, check if the oven’s clock or timer still works. If it does, the problem might be a blown thermal fuse instead-a $10 part that’s easy to swap.

Thermal fuse blown

This is a safety device that cuts power if the oven overheats. It’s usually located near the heating element or vent. If your oven suddenly stops working with no warning, and the display is dead, the thermal fuse might have blown. It’s not a sign of a broken oven-it’s a sign the oven did its job and protected itself.

Common causes include blocked vents, dirty filters, or a failed thermostat that let the oven run too hot. You can test the fuse with a multimeter. If it shows no continuity, replace it. Always find and fix the root cause first. If you just replace the fuse without fixing what caused it to blow, it’ll blow again in a week.

Igniter problems (in oven with broil function)

Some electric ovens have a broil element that activates with a small igniter, especially in models with convection settings. If the broil function doesn’t work but the bake function does, the igniter could be faulty. You might hear a clicking sound but no glow or heat from the broil element.

Igniters are less common in electric ovens than in gas ones, but they do exist. They’re usually located near the broil element. If it’s cracked or doesn’t glow when activated, replace it. These cost $25-$50 and are easy to swap.

Loose or damaged wiring

Over time, vibrations, heat, and aging can cause wires to loosen or fray. This is especially true near the heating elements or control panel. You might notice intermittent operation-sometimes the oven works, sometimes it doesn’t. Or you might smell burning plastic or see scorch marks inside the back panel.

Never ignore this. Loose wiring is a fire hazard. If you’re comfortable opening the back panel (after unplugging the oven), check for disconnected wires, melted insulation, or corrosion. Tighten any loose connections. Replace damaged wires with the same gauge and rating. If you’re unsure, don’t risk it-call a professional.

Why you should fix it yourself (when you can)

Most of these fixes don’t require special tools. A screwdriver, a multimeter, and 30 minutes of time are all you need. Replacing a heating element or thermostat saves you $100-$200 in service fees. Even if you buy the wrong part the first time, most appliance stores let you return unused parts.

Before you start, find your oven’s model number. It’s usually on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back. Use that number to search for replacement parts. Don’t guess-using the wrong part can damage your oven further.

When to call a professional

You should call a technician if:

• The oven shows error codes you can’t look up
• You smell gas (even in an electric oven-this could mean a nearby gas line issue)
• There’s visible damage to the internal wiring or control board
• You’ve replaced parts and the problem keeps coming back

Also, if your oven is over 15 years old, consider replacement. Older models are less efficient and harder to find parts for. Newer ovens have better safety features and energy ratings that can cut your electricity bill by 20-30%.

Prevent future problems

Keep your oven clean-but don’t use harsh oven cleaners on the interior. They can damage the enamel and sensors. Wipe spills with warm soapy water after the oven cools. Clean the vents and filters every few months. Don’t overload the oven or block airflow. And never ignore strange smells or sounds. A quiet oven is a healthy oven.